If trend forecasting was a dangerous profession before the outbreak of the new crown epidemic, it is now a game of Russian roulette. Certainly, caution is the obvious expectation for the watchmaking industry in 2021, but things are not that simple. Due to the length of time taken to design, engineer and produce, many of the watches on display at the Geneva Watch and Wonder Fair 2021 will be in production long before any of us can say the word “coronavirus”. The watch industry’s reaction time may be similar to that of an oil tanker, not so fast, but I believe that in this most unusual year they have adopted strategies such as delaying major launches, phasing in products over the course of the year or quickly addressing the issue of dial and strap replacement. Thus, at the second purely digital watch fair of our lifetime, a wide variety of timepieces were launched.
In these difficult times, a colour update or a metal case change is an attractive option. A new lacquer finish or a rose gold case offers a watch that can be re-produced in a much shorter replacement time. Blue seems to be the colour of the year and is a conservative choice for tough times.
ImagePatek Philippe first launched the sporty and much-loved Nautilus Travel Time Chronograph 5990:1R-001 in 2014, and at Watches and Wonders 2021 we saw a number of different models, including this pink and gold model with a beautiful blue dial.
Patek Philippe first presented the Nautilus Travel Time Chronograph 5990:1R-001 in stainless steel in 2014. since then we have seen the debut of many variants. The collection now includes this pink and gold model with a blue dial, which is sure to become a hit with Patek Philippe fans.ImageVacheron celebrates the 100th anniversary of the iconic American 1921 with two white gold and 100 white gold limited editions.Vacheron Constantin has launched two white gold and 100 platinum limited editions to celebrate the 100th anniversary of the American 1921, a unique design worn at an eccentric angle on the wrist, with the crown at 1 o’clock,replica iwc watches and now with the addition of a new white gold model and limited edition platinum and glamorous strap detailing, immediately adding another layer of the ideal time trust classic. Similarly, Cartier has turned to the Tank – its classic design – to navigate the stormy seas of uncertainty. 2021 edition of Louis Cartier’s Tank comes in two new versions: one with a blue dial and a blue strap with a rose gold case (below), the other has a red dial and a yellow gold case. Arguably very Cartier, but with a little novelty, the Tank Louis Cartier ticks all the ideal boxes, including a pedigree 1917 MC hand-wound manufacture movement. imageThis version of the Tank Louis Cartie has a timeless elegance and is powered by Cartier’s 1917 MC hand-wound manufacture movement. IWC also turned to colour to add interest to its best-selling Big Pilot’s model with the Top Gun version of the “Mojave Desert”, which has been treated to a frosted finish. The golden brown colour of the dial, hands, ceramic case and even the fabric strap echo the warm tones of the California desert. image presented by IWC on 2021 Watches and Wonders Big Pilot Top Gun Edition “”Mojave Desert ” reflects the colours of the California desert.ImagePanerai Luminor Chrono Goldtech BluNotte presented by Italian watchmaker Panerai at Watches & Wonders 2021, its Goldtech case is more resistant to oxidation than traditional rose gold Panerai’s Luminor Chrono Goldtech Blue Notte (shown above) goes a step further with its new rose gold alloy Goldtech, which has a higher proportion of copper and platinum. Rose or pink gold is the most difficult gold to use in watchmaking, as its colour changes over time. Thanks to the new technology used in Panerai Goldtech (registered by Panerai), it now offers not only greater resistance to oxidation but also superior technical performance. It is a stunningly handsome watch with all the key design cues that have made the brand a collector’s favourite. Even the more avant-garde watchmakers are creating what we now think of as ‘classic’ watches.Resence has launched a blue version of its hybrid Titanium Type 2 collection, which was launched in 2018 as a concept watch.The Resence 2N Deep Blue is a hybrid that boldly combines the electronic patented e-Crown automatic time setting and a traditional mechanical movement mixed together. The dark blue colour suits it well.ImageThe Ressence Type 2N Night Blue, presented at Watches & Wonders 2021, is a hybrid watch that mixes the electronic patented e-Crown for automatic timekeeping with a traditional mechanical movement.ImageJaeger-LeCoultre limited edition Reverso The back of the Hybris Mechanica Calibre 185 is Watches & Wonders 20212 is one of the most complex manufactured Swiss watches ever made by the maker of a unique concept that uses four dials to display complex and precise solar and lunar indicators of the passage of time. This year has seen some bold new movements and complications,replica watches albeit fewer in number. A stand-out piece was Jaeger-LeCoultre’s Reverso Hybris Mechanica Calibre 185 (pictured above). This mechanical marvel is one of the most complex Reversos yet produced by the Swiss watchmaker, with a unique design concept that uses four dials to display the complex and precise passage of time of the sun and moon. Needless to say, it is a limited edition and adds to the stately collection of Watches & Wonders 2021. Other bold mechanical strategies include Montblanc’s Star Legacy Metamorphosis with Calibre MB M67.60, which, in addition to hours, minutes and seconds, has a patented ExoTourbillon, a world time and moon phase. With this level of complexity, Montblanc will only produce 8 pieces of this ultra-exquisite watch. imageThe Star Legacy Metamorphosis, which Montblanc is presenting at the Watchmaking Wonders 2021, will only be made in 8 pieces, and it is equipped with Calibre MB M67.60, which, in addition to hours, minutes and seconds, has the patented ExoTourbillon, which shows world time and the phases of the moon.
Among the “totally unexpected” collections are two brands with watches that you wouldn’t expect to be associated with death. The Tambour Carpe Diem from French luxury house Louis Vuitton is unexpected and unlike anything the company has ever released before. The skull on the dial is interesting enough, but start reading the seconds and you’re treated to a creepy display: a rattlesnake wiggles its tail and head to tell the time, and the skull’s open jaws read in blood-red letters: Live in time. Spend more time admiring the mastery of enamel and gold ornaments, including ornate details, from the snake’s Vuitton logo scales to the skull with its yellow teeth. There is also an hourglass set into the dial to remind you that time is limited in this world. imageImageEven the back of the Tambour Carpe Diem presented by Louis Vuitton at Watches & Wonders 2021 is interesting, offering a glimpse into the mechanical complexity and the watch mechanism that brings this highly ornate watch to life. There was also a stunning work of art at Image Watches & Wonders 2021, created by Hermès artisans who gave a highly detailed miniature skeleton set into this Slim d’Hermès dial. hermès is also looking for the latest Métiers d’Art timepiece, called Slim d’ Unlike any other Hermès watch I’ve seen before, this is a chic and elegant skeleton riding on a horse, its magnificent mane swaying in the wind. As a Hermès gentleman death, he appears well-dressed, wearing a hat and a silent double-breasted coat, complete with green silk tie, as he rides his skeleton horse with contempt, as if attending a party, as if he will meet many souls like him along the way. This whimsical piece was crafted by expert Swiss artisans. If anything is to be concluded from this year’s watch offerings, it is that the only thing to look forward to is the unexpected: perhaps one or two more Grim Reapers.
ImageAt Watches & Wonders 2021, Ressence presented the blue hybrid titanium Type 2 collection, which was launched as a concept watch in 2018. imageTank Louis Cartier, presented by the French brand at Watches & Wonders 2021, comes in two versions, one with a blue dial ImageThis diagonal cushion-shaped Vacheron Constantin American 1921, is this unique watch, used to celebrate the 100th anniversary.
ImageThe latest Métiers d’Art watch, entitled Slim d’Hermès C’est la fête, on display at Watches & Wonders 2021, is a miniature skeleton made, engraved and enamelled by expert Swiss craftsmen riding on a horse.